Yesterday was one of those days with my children where my patience was non-existent.
I was extra snappy, extra tired, and I wasn’t exactly the mother that I’d like to be.
I’m sure you have these moments too. You go to sleep with some regrets and hope to wake up in the morning with extra hugs and kisses for their little faces, a kinder voice, and more patience to hear their wee requests.Continue reading
We’re in the midst of building our new home, and I’m attempting to work on the girls’ room decor now so that it will be ready to pop in their new rooms when our house is done. I’m slowly working on it, so depending on how quickly our house finishing goes (which, in my estimate, won’t be as quick as I’d like it to be), I should be successful!
For Baby A’s room, I’m basing her decor colour scheme and style around this quilt I made for her late last year. Her room will be full of retro woodland animals, soft hues of mint, turquoise, coral, pink and yellow, and I think I’ll top it all off with a sweet chandelier. I thought a cute addition to Baby A’s nursery decor would be a retro-styled bunting banner to hang above her crib (or over a reading corner – we’ll see) and I managed to sew one this week out of fabrics that match her quilt.
This DIY scalloped bunting banner is very easy and inexpensive to make and it would be a great addition to any nursery decor. It would also be cute in a playroom, as a unique photo prop or as a party decoration.
Materials (for a banner approximately 60″ long):
1/2 yard each of 4 different fabrics
a roll of bias tape (or make your own from 1/4 yard of fabric)
an ice cream pail lid
To cut out the flag pieces, fold a piece of fabric in half and lay the ice cream pail lid on it with just less than half of it off of the fabric (as pictured above). Trace around it to make your scallop shape.
Cut this piece out and use it as a template to cut 14 more pieces out. You will cut out 4 pieces in each fabric.
With two right sides together, sew around the curved edge of the pieces using a 1/4″ seam. I used a serger (because it’s fast), but a regular sewing machine would work just as well. Repeat with all of the pieces until you have 8 flags sewn. Turn them right side out and press them flat.
Cut a 70″ piece of bias tape, and then sew its short end and about 6″ of its long end shut (sewing about 1/4″ from the open edges). Slip your first flag into the open edges of the bias tape, and sew the tape around the raw edge of the flag. Repeat with the rest of the flags, placing them right next to each other as you sew. You could pin them in place first if you prefer!
Sew the rest of the bias tape closed along the long and short end, and you’re ready to hang your adorable scalloped bunting banner!
You know the early-90’s-ish glider rocking chairs you can buy from big box stores for your nursery? The ones that are beige coloured and “blah”? We had to snap one up when our first baby was born. Do you know why? Because the thing was just so darn comfy!
With baby number two now here and with the fact that we had to move the glider to the living room due to space issues, I thought it was time to update the chair to make it more modern and fun looking.
To be honest, I found this project quite challenging – a definite “labour of love”! I really like the results, though, and the hard work was well worth it.
Want to know how to update your dated glider with fabric and paint? Here’s how I did it:
1 yard of cotton decor fabric in contrasting colour/pattern (for sides of cushions and piping if desired)
2 cans paint + primer spray paint in white
reupholstery batting (it’s a heavy-weight, fluffy batting)
upholstery zippers (for back and for bottom cushions)
Remove all of the cushions from the chair and the ottoman if you have one. Paint evenly with spray paint outdoors, following the paint’s directions. I decided to distress the paint with sandpaper, sanding all of the edges of the chair as shown above for a shabby chic effect. This works well if you’re painting over a dark coloured stain.
In my opinion, something that really dated the look of this glider was the rounded back cushion with the buttons. I covered the entire cushion with thick batting and squared the corners (I stuffed the corners with polyester batting to fill them out). I also cut strips for the edge of the cushion, making it have a “boxier” look. I hand-stitched the sides to the front and back loosely, just to hold it all in place over the old cushion. I repeated this process for the seat cushion.
Next, make some piping if desired for the edges of the cushions (I definitely wanted some on mine to define the edges and give my cushions some interest). Measure the diameter of your cushions and multiply that number by two to determine the length of piping that you need. Cut 2″ wide strips of fabric and sew them together at an angle (like the first photo above). Fold them over some piping cord and sew to secure (like the second photo above).
Measure both of your cushions carefully and cut out the front and back pieces for each cushion based on your measurements. If you’re using a largely patterned main fabric like I did, make sure you decide whether or not you want to center any motifs on the cushions and cut accordingly! Cut the side, front and back rectangular pieces from your contrasting fabric based on the measurements of your cushions and the thickness of your cushions. For the back of the seat cushion and bottom of the back cushion you will be sewing a zipper in, so cut this piece 1 inch deeper (higher) and then cut in half lengthwise (as pictured in photo one above). Sew the piping onto the edges of the tops and bottoms of the cushions, meeting the raw edges of the piping with the raw edges of the cushion (as shown in picture two). Where the piping meets, cut the cord so that the beginning and end just meet, and ensure the fabric wrapping it is slightly longer. Then, fold one side of the fabric from right to wrong side to create a finished seam and sew down (as pictured in photo three above).
For the side pieces, start with the zipper side and sew the zipper in place – it joins the two narrower strips as shown in the first picture above. Topstitch, and then fold a scrap piece of fabric in half and sew on the wrong side against the short raw edge as shown in picture two above to create a zipper “stop” that will prevent the zipper from falling off. Now, sew these side pieces to the other front and back pieces of the cushion that you’ve cut out and have added piping to previously. I used a TON of pins for this part, and even then I found it quite difficult to get my seam at a nice location so that the stitch on the piping wouldn’t show. The corners were hard too! I did the best I could by machine, and then hand-stitched the corners and the little mistakes I had made earlier. It worked for me!
If your glider has a rocking ottoman, it’s a cinch to recover! Flip the upholstered piece over, remove the staples around the edges of the bottom covering fabric. Cut a piece of main fabric and batting about 3″ larger than the ottoman on all sides. Lay the fabric right side down on the floor, then the batting, then the ottoman (centered). Pull the fabric around and staple it down to the underside of the ottoman on all four sides, tugging gently and smoothing as you go. For the corners, I gently pleated and pulled them to create as smooth a corner as possible (as shown in picture three above). Finally, replace the bottom cover piece with staples.
Stuff the cushions into the cushion covers you’ve just made, place them on your glider and sit back to admire your work! I was general happy with my glider update. It certainly was a tough project, but it gave my rocker such a different look and it will look so sweet when we are able to put it in a nursery for my little girlie!
Since I did not go into detail on some upholstery basics for this post, you may find the following links helpful for this project:
Don’t be afraid to give this project a try! In my opinion, it’s well worth the effort and much less expensive than buying something new. Plus, it’s totally custom and you could make it match so perfectly with any nursery decor!
I’m working on giving my master bedroom a little makeover this spring. I love the look of decorative cushions in fun colours, and they do wonders for changing the look of a room! These pillow covers were based off of a pillow cover I had purchased with a buttoned opening on the back. I loved the buttons so much that I decided that the buttons should be on the front side!
This tutorial is really simple. I found the hardest parts were ensuring the measurements were correct and sewing the button holes (I avoid any type of closure sewing – buttons, zippers, all of them). But once you make one, you’ll want to make a half dozen for your home! They are a quick little project to brighten up your living room, your baby’s room, or your bedroom.
Square pillow form
1/2 yard cotton decor fabric (or a full yard if your pillow is larger than 16 inches)
3 buttons (3/4″ to 1″ wide)
I purchased my fabric for this project from fabric.com:
Measure your pillow form from end to end. For my master bedroom project so far, I purchased and measured one 20″ pillow form and two 17″ pillow forms.
One side of the pillow is plain, so cut one square of fabric that is ONE INCH larger than your pillow form measurement (to allow for 1/2″ seam allowances). If you want to center a pattern from your fabric on the pillow, keep this in mind when cutting (above, I centered a yellow flower on the back piece).
Multiply your pillow width by 0.66 (2/3). Add 6″ to this measurement (for a seam allowance and fold + an extra 3″ to go beneath the large piece for the button placket). This is the width your large front piece, which is approximately 2/3 of the pillow width (the length is the same as your back piece/pillow form length). The button holes will go on the hemmed edge of this piece. Measure twice and cut once, keeping in mind fabric pattern placement!
Multiply your pillow width by 0.33 (1/3). Add 3″ to this measurement (for a seam allowance and fold) . This is the width your small front piece, which is approximately 1/3 of the pillow width (the length is the same as your back piece/pillow form length). The buttons will be sewn on the hemmed edge of this piece. Measure twice and cut once!
Now you will be sewing the large hems on the front pieces for the button placket. On each front piece, using the side that is the regular pillow form width, turn the raw edge over 1/2″ and press. Then, turn again 2 1/2″. Press. Sew along this hem, approximately 1/8″ from the fold.
Lay the larger piece over top of the small piece with the hems facing eachother. The large piece should then overlap the smaller piece by 2 1/2″, covering the lower piece’s hem. Pin at the ends to secure, then stay-stitch the ends 1/4″ from the raw edges.
Now, lay this front piece over the previously cut back piece, right sides together. The nice thing about this project is that if you measured the front pieces incorrectly, you can trim either side at this point to match the front piece! Pin around the perimeter, then sew the pieces together using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim the corners at an angle (this gives a nice crisp corner when turned right-side-out).
Turn the pillow right-side-out through the opening. Poke the corners out. Next, find the center of the top button placket using a measuring tape. Mark the center with a pin near the hem sewing line. Using another pin, mark your button’s width directly below that (example: if your button measures 3/4″ inch, put a pin 3/4″ below the first pin) to mark where your button hole begins and ends.
I unfortunately have a manual button holer on my machine, so I have to use this marking process. If you have an automatic button holer – bonus! Follow the directions on your machine to make the button holes.
Then, use the same pin-marking technique to place one button hole centered between this middle button hole and the edge of the pillow. Repeat for the other side.
Hand-stitch the buttons on the lower placket by measuring in the same manner and marking with pins. Center them vertically on the lower piece’s hem.
And, voila! You are finished. Press the pillow cover if you wish, and place the pillow form inside. Button it up & make a few more. So pretty!
Christina Dennis is the creator and designer behind Golly Gee Baby, a collection of unique and colourful baby clothing and accessories that are ethically manufactured.
I had originally heard this old poem from a friend at my first daughter’s baby shower – it’s a poem I often think of when I’m feeling tired and busy. The precious moments with my children will fly by all too quickly, and the moments spent with them are far more important than any other work I could do.Continue reading
I don’t know about you, but the walls in my house are very very bare. Sometimes it’s a nice feeling, and sometimes well, it feels really a bit too bare. My problem is that I just can’t bring myself to put holes in the walls to hang something I don’t absolutely love. Continue reading