A master bedroom suite should be a place to relax, to dream and to retreat… especially when you have young children that demand your attention all day long!
I haven’t had a place to retreat to in a very long time (except for the bathroom in our Garage House, which is less than glamourous). Our DIY House will have a bedroom just for me and the Hubs – with a lovely ensuite and walk-in closet to boot! I am over-the-moon-crazy-freaky-excited about this spot just for us. They’ll be no babies in bassinets by my head, no change tables, no file folders, no electrical box… and so much room.Continue reading
Many, many hours of planning were spent over the kitchen design of Our DIY House. I even Photoshopped various light fixtures into my Ikea kitchen layout to make sure I was happy with the result. I spent days deciding between an island and a peninsula (I chose an island), and I stared endlessly at kitchen design photos in magazines and on Pinterest.Continue reading
With your white/cream yarn, starting with your first square in the first row, attach the yarn to one corner ch 1 hole and then chain 3 (this will act as your first dbl crochet + chain 1). [ Dbl crochet 3 times into the same hole (this forms a corner of the square), chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1 ] Repeat 3 times until you’re at the hole you started on and then slip stitch into the 3rd chain from the beginning. Pull yarn through loop and cut, leaving a tail.
Now, you will move on to the second square in the first row and join it this way:
Attach the white/cream yarn to one corner ch 1 hole and then chain 3 (this will act as your first dbl crochet + chain 1). [Dbl crochet 3 times into the same hole (this forms a corner of the square), chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1.] Repeat once and then stop! Poke your crochet hook through one corner chain of the first square. Slip stich through.
Ch 1, dbl crochet 3 times in same hole (of second square), chain 1, [dbl crochet 1 time in the next hole, then find the middle dbl crochet of the adjacent “dbl crochet 3” on your first square and slip stich through. Dbl crochet 2 times, ch 1] Repeat from [ to ]. Dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1. Slip stitch into the 3rd chain from the beginning. Pull yarn through loop and cut, leaving a tail.
You’ll repeat this pattern for the entire first row of 12 squares.
On the next rows, when you need to join one square to others, only crochet up one side, and then start attaching it to the other squares.
Here’s a picture showing a slip stitch through the corner chains to attach the square corners together.
The blanket is 16 rows long, so this part takes a while. I would suggest to take a “break” every few rows and weave in the ends on the back of the blanket so that you’re not weaving them ALL in at the end (which is really annoying)!
Once the entire 16 rows of 12 are joined, you’re ready to edge the blanket.
Finishing the blanket:
I chose a very simple bobble edge so that the colourful granny squares were the stars of this piece!
I think we’ll cuddle up with this blankie on our living room couch, and then when our new house is built and Baby A has her own nursery, it will reside there. I like that it’s soft and made of natural fibers.
I’m totally in love with this crocheted granny square blanket – it’s retro-cuteness at it’s finest. And I’m really proud of it!
Have you ever crocheted a blanket? Please share your finished projects in the comments below.
I fell in love with vintage-looking granny square blankets last spring when I saw them all over Pinterest. I especially liked the ones with vibrantly coloured squares surrounded by white or cream stitches. So pretty!
I made it my mission starting last May to crochet a granny square blankie that I could use for my baby girl (or just as a throw in our living room). This project took me a long time (8 months!) but it was well worth the effort. And, honestly – it was a relaxing little project that was easy to pick up any time.
The pattern was concocted by staring at a million pictures of blankets I loved, and with the help of my mom who is wonderful at eyeballing crocheted works and duplicating them. I used a really soft and lovely organic cotton sport-weight yarn fromKnit Picks. It was nice to work with and also budget-friendly. The yarn has since been discontinued, but check out Knit Picks for other inexpensive yarns in natural fibers.
Here’s how I made this blanket (I’ll divide this tutorial into two parts because it’s quite long)!
Finished blanket measures approximately 48″ by 64″. Gauge isn’t really important unless you want the blanket to be exactly this size (if so, the squares should measure about 4″ wide).
2 skeins each of 8 different colours of yarn (164 yard skeins)
8 skeins of white/cream coloured yarn (164 yard skeins)
I made 12 different combinations of granny squares and I mixed up the colours in a way that was visually appealing to me. If you look at this photo, you can see the basic pattern I used. Feel free to copy it, or it’s a lot of fun to come up with your own colour combos with the different colours of yarn.
Plan the colours that will go into each of the 12 different granny squares, and then make them like this:
Chain 4, slip stich into the first chain to form a loop. Chain 3 (this will count as your first double crochet cluster and chain) and then dbl crochet into the loop, but don’t do the last step of the dbl crochet (leaving 2 loops on your hook). Dbl crochet into the loop again, and then on the final step pull your yarn through all the loops on your hook. This forms a double crochet cluster. Chain 1.
Repeat a dbl chrochet cluster + chain 1 6 more times so that you have 8 dbl crochet clusters on your loop. Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of your first faux dbl crochet cluster. Pull yarn through loop and cut, leaving a tail.
With your second chosen colour of yarn, attach it in a chain one hole. Chain3 (this will act as your first dbl crochet + chain 1). [Dbl crochet into the next chain 1 hole 3 times. Chain 1. ] Repeat until you’re at the hole you began with, dbl crochet 2 times and slip stitch into the third chain you started with. Pull yarn through loop and cut, leaving a tail.
With a third colour, attach yarn to one of the chain 1 holes of the previous round. Chain 3 (this will act as your first dbl crochet + chain 1). [ Dbl crochet 3 times into the same hole (this forms a corner of the square), chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1, dbl crochet 3 times into the next hole, chain 1 ] Repeat 3 times until you’re at the hole you started on and then slip stitch into the 3rd chain from the beginning. Pull yarn through loop and cut, leaving a tail.
You will need to make 16 of each of the 12 squares. I used a tin to store them in. This is a great project to do a bit at the time – do a couple of squares each night as you relax!
I have a “thing” for cream coloured, lacey knits. When the weather dropped to minus 30°C a couple Christmases ago (this is common up here in Edmonton, Alberta!), I decided that I could use a new pair of warm, wooley mittens. Rather than buying a pair, I decided to design some using odds and ends from home. Et Voila! The Pearly Girly Mitts were born! These would make a great gift for the ultimate girly-girl in your life, or for yourself! These mittens feature a lacey ribbed edge, a feminine and practical tie around the wrist, a smocked pattern down the center, and they’re topped off with some lovely faux pearl button embellishments.
Yarn: 2 skeins Lamb’s Pride Worsted (85% wool/15% mohair) in White Frost or a similar worsted weight yarn
Needles: 4 Size 6 US (4 mm) double pointed needles (or size needed to obtain gauge)
6 faux pearl buttons
Thread to sew on buttons
Sizes: Women’s size medium Gauge: 4.5 st = 1”
Abbreviations & Explanations:
K = knit YO = bring yarn over needle to create an extra eyelet stitch P = purl St st = stockinette stitch PM = place marker K2tog = knit two stitches together ssk = slip 1, slip 1, knit 2slipped stitches together M1 = make one stitch by inserting tip of left needle underneath the strand of yarn between two needles, place the lifted strand on the left needle, and knit the lifted strand, twisting to avoid leaving a hole Sl = slip Tie st = sl next 5 st on to cable needle, wrap yarn around these 5 st twice, then K1, P3, K1 from cable needle
Openwork Rib Pattern:
Round 1: K1, YO, ssk, P2 (repeat until end of round) Round 2: K3, P2 (rep to end of round) Round 3: K2tog, YO, K1, P2 (rep to end of round) Round 4: Same as R2 Repeat rounds 1-4 for pattern Smocked Honeycomb Pattern: Round 1 & 2: P3, *K1, P3*, rep from * to end of round Round 3: P3, *tie st, P3, rep from * to end of round Round 4, 5 & 6: As round1 & 2 Round 7: P3, K1, *P3, tie st, rep from * to end of round, ending last rep with K1, P3 Round 8: As round 2 Repeat rounds 1-8 for pattern.
Smocked Honeycomb Pattern:
Round 1 & 2: P3, *K1, P3*, rep from * to end of round Round 3: P3, *tie st, P3, rep from * to end of round Round 4, 5 & 6: As round1 & 2 Round 7: P3, K1, *P3, tie st, rep from * to end of round, ending last rep with K1, P3 Round 8: As round 2 Repeat rounds 1-8 for pattern.
CO 42 st evenly onto 3 double pointed needles. Work in Openwork Rib pattern until ribbing measures 2.5” from start. Next Round: K2tog, YO, rep to end of round. Next Round: Working in K3, P2 rib pattern, increase 4 st evenly across round
Round1: P12, work 19 st in Smocked Honeycomb pattern, P3, PM, M1, P1, M1, PM, P to end of round.
Round1: P7, PM, M1, P1, M1, PM, P3, work 19 st in Smocked Honeycomb pattern, P to end of round.
Round 2: P12, work 19 st in Smocked Honeycomb pattern, P to end of round (slip markers as you go) Round 3: Work in pattern as established (Smocked Honeycomb pattern in center front of mitten bordered by reverse stockinette stitching) to thumb gusset, M1, P to marker, M1, work in patt to end of round Rounds 4 & 5: Work evenly in patt as established Rep rounds 3 – 5 until you have 15 thumb gusset st between markers, ending with a Round 3. Next Round: Work in patt to thumb gusset, remove markers, place thumb st on scrap yarn, CO one st, cont in patt to the end of the round Cont in patt as established until mitten measures 6.5” from ribbing (or to desired length).
Discontinue Smocked Honeycomb pattern and work all st in reverse stockinette. Round 1: *P2, P2tog, repeat from *. Round 2 – 4: Purl. Round 5: *P1, P2tog, repeat from *. Rounds 6 – 8: Purl. Round 9: *P2tog, repeat from *. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining st. Pull and fasten on the inside of the mitten.
Place thumb st onto 3 double pointed needles and pick up an extra stitch on both sides of the CO st. Work in reverse stockinette until thumb measures 2” from base. Next Round: *P2tog, rep from *. Cut yearn leaving a long tail Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining st. Pull and fasten on the inside of the mitten.
CO 3 st onto a double pointed needle and knit one row. Do not turn work. Push stitches to other end of the needles. Swap the RH needle with the LH needle, pull up the yarn and K the 3 st again. Rep for each row until cord measures 20”. Bind off. Thread knitted cord through eyelets created at the top of the ribbing. Tie in a bow where desired.
Sew 3 pearl buttons with needle and thread in the centers of the Smocked Honeycomb pattern (use picture as a guide). Sew in all loose ends. Block if desired.
My three-year-old loves princesses of all kinds and dressing up like them whenever she has the chance. We’ve purchased a lot of the Disney princess dresses and have had some gifted to us, but the other week my darling girl wanted a very specific princess dress. She’s been watching Barbie’s Princess and the Pauper (*eye roll* – gift from a friend!) and kept commenting on how beautiful Princess Anneleise’s “pretty pink rose dress” was. I told her we could sew one together and she was ecstatic!
The base of this princess dress is a very simple peasant style dress pattern, and I’ve added some fun embellishments like ruffles, ribbons and a rose. This dress is wide with an elastic neckline and sleeves, so it would grow with a child – comfortably from age 2 to age 5 or so. It’s a classic, shiny pink princess dress, so it could work for any type of little princess!
1 yard pink satin fabric (I used cuddle satin for a little extra body and comfort – it has a flannel backing)
From the pink satin, cut out the sleeve pieces, back bodice, side front bodice. Cut the center front from the white satin. From the white satin, cut two 5″ wide strips from the entire width of the satin for the ruffles (not pictured). From the pink satin, cut one 5″ wide strip from the entire width of the satin (for the flower embellishment). For the skirt, measure your child from an inch beneath their armpit to where you want the hem of the dress to fall (if you make the dress long, your child will be able to wear it longer!). Add 3 inches to this measurement (for the waist seam and bottom hem), and cut a full width of the pink satin fabric in this length (my fabric was 54″ wide). Cut this piece in half so that you have a skirt front and skirt back piece.
Take the center front piece cut from white satin, and arrange lengths of gold ribbon cut to size as pictured above (I eye-balled my placement). You might prefer three criss-crosses or only one – it’s up to you and your princess! Pin the ribbon, then sew it to the satin piece with stitches down the middle of each ribbon length.
With right sides together, sew one of the front side pieces to the side of the center front piece. (For this dress, I used my serger for an all-in-one seam finish, but if you are using a regular machine make sure to finish the seams with a zig-zag stich after sewing). Repeat with opposite side. Press seam open on low heat. Lay a length of ribbon over the seam, cut to size, and sew with stitches down the middle. Repeat with opposite side.
With right sides together, sew the bodice front to the bodice back at the side seams.
Sew the two long white satin pieces together on one short end of each. Fold in half, wrong sides together and gather along the raw edge. Here, I used my serger to gather quickly by adjusting the tension, but you can also gather with a long running stitch on your machine and pulling the upper thread. Here is an excellent post on gathering techniques.
With raw edges together, sew the white ruffle to the bottom edge of one sleeve. Cut to fit after sewing. Turn to right side, press lightly, and topstitch about 1/8″ close to seam to keep ruffle flat. Repeat with second sleeve.
Cut two pieces of 1/4″ elastic that are approximately 8″ each. On the wrong side of booth sleeves, draw a straight line with a pencil and ruler that’s about 4″ from the bottom of the ruffle. Attach the elastic to the wring side of the sleeve by sewing a straight line in the center of the elastic, pulling the elastic with your hand as you sew to ruffle the fabric and stretch the elastic to the opposite side of the sleeve. Repeat with second sleeve.
Fold each sleeve horizontally in half with right sides together, and sew each of their side seams together matching the bottoms of the ruffles.
Open up the top of one sleeve and pin its curved edge to the curved sleeve opening of one side of the bodice, right sides together. Match armpit seams. Sew together.
With raw edges together, sew the white satin ruffle to the lower edge of the bodice. Start on one side seam, fold the short raw edge of the ruffle to the underside. When you reach the beginning again, overlap the end of the ruffle slightly over the beginning and fold the raw edge under again after trimming to fit.
With right sides together and sandwiching the ruffle in between, sew the front and back pieces of the skirt together at the side seams. Gather the upper edge of the skirt with a serger or regular machine, and pin it to the bodice (pulling or loosening gathers to fit) with the right sides together. Sew.
Turn dress right-side-out and press waist seam lightly. Topstitch about 1/8″ from seam to help ruffle lay flat.
Serge raw edge of bodice neck OR turn over 1/4″ and press. Turn over 1/2″ and press, then stitch close to folded edge to create a casing for the neck elastic. Leave a 1″ opening. Cut a 16″ piece of 1/4″ elastic, and thread through the casing (I use a safety pin on the threading end and a stick pin on the opposite end). Sew the edges of the elastic together securely once threaded and stitch the casing opening shut.
The main dress is DONE! Now, on to the embellishments:
Fold the 5″ wide strip of pink satin you cut earlier in half lengthwise and gather (like you did with the white ruffles before). I used a full width of my pink satin, then cut the ruffled piece in half – one to use for the dress and one for a hair accessory for later!
Start rolling the ruffled strip (you’re making a rose from the center out), hand sewing the raw edges together as you go (I just used random stitches, making sure to secure the layers together as best I could).
Once you’re finished rolling and sewing the ruffled strip to your liking, make sure to secure it at the end with several knots of thread. Leave a long tail of thread and the needle attached to sew the rose to the dress bodice.
Sew the rose to the dress bodice, using the dress picture as a guide. Use lots of hand stitches, and secure it well at the end with several knots.
Tie a bow from the gold ribbon, cut it to your desired length, and stitch it to the center of the bottom of the bodice. I machine stitched the bow on, on each side of the knot (you could also hand stich, but I find machine stitching this way keeps the bow tied securely).
You’re ALL DONE! Share an afternoon tea with your little princess.
Christina Dennis is the creator and designer behind Golly Gee Baby, a collection of unique and colourful baby clothing and accessories that are ethically manufactured.